Design, Housing, and Merchandising

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[Underfashion Club]

Communications Between U.S. Importers and Indian Exporters

India's economic growth through increased apparel exports provides employment for workers living a marginal existence and improves the economics for many families. To effectively contract production, U.S. importers need to understand the Indian organizational set-up, communication practices and the corresponding effect on product quality. The purpose was to identify and describe production related "communication practices used by Indian producer-exporters to communicate quality standards" within their organizations. Thirty-five producer-exporters were interviewed in or near Madras, India. Open-ended questions avoided limited responses and provided for follow-up questions. Responses were recorded for reference and content analysis. Descriptive statistics and Yin's pattern matching logic were used to identify and describe communications practices and related quality outcomes. Two types of communications practices were identified. Each type is associated with specific production practices related to the use of contractors. Understanding producer-exporter practices enables U.S. importers to identify Indian organizations that best communicate quality standards that meet expectations.

Sponsor: State of Oklahoma
PI: Cheryl Farr

Attitudes and Usage of Multimedia Instruction in Apparel Merchandising and Apparel Design Programs

If higher education is to produce graduates who are competitive in the global workplace, we must develop and implement curriculum using multimedia technology. This instructional method is used in primary and secondary education to increase learning and recall and, in business and industry to provide training to employees and merchandise and services to customers. Multimedia instruction combines traditional instruction with computer interface, CD-ROM, interactive video, and local area networks. This project has resulted in the development of multimedia instructional materials for use in apparel merchandising and apparel design curriculum at Oklahoma State University. Students enrolled in the courses utilizing these materials indicate that they enjoy the introduction to technology and demonstrate a greater interest in the subject matter when the multimedia materials are used. Plans are currently underway to offer this curriculum via distance education.

Sponsor: State of Oklahoma
PI: Lona Robertson

Culture and the Built Environment in Case Studies of Resettlement

Culture and the built environment are interrelated. The reciprocal relationship between people and their built environment is a manifestation of cultural factors, such as cultural identity, time perception, and values. The investigations pursued deal with the identification of the intrinsic elements of a culture that are important to a congruent relationship between the people and their built environment. The elderly, health care users, and military families are some of the cultural groups researched. Investigation of the built environment is primarily interdisciplinary. Investigation of various forms of cultural groups, their built environments, and the reciprocal relationship of the two helps attain an understanding of factors affecting quality of life in the built environment.
While the research continues, two models were generated. The first model explains and predicts the outcome of built environment/culture interaction in cases of resettlement. This model has been pilot tested on two cultural groups, and modified accordingly. The second model is based on the culture and resettlement model, as well as on social theories of risk. The second model aims to explain and predict the process of decision making in the built environment from the designer's, the user's, and the researcher's perspectives. Other outcomes of the research are manifested in outreach activities such as the proposal for the enhancement of a specific environment that caters to an elderly group through lighting design. Several presentations to disseminate the outcomes, as well as manuscript submissions have been achieved.

Sponsor: State of Oklahoma
PI: Rula Awwad-Rafferty

Develop Multicultural Leaders for Human and Agricultural Sciences

Two conferences for the 31 participating students from OSU and the University of Arkansas-Pine Bluff were held this year. The emphasis of this project was science, art and history in developing an understanding of cultures; Native American and Hispanic. Students also read literature and participated in several special discussion groups on African-American culture, Anglo culture, and Hispanic cultures. Students planned mini-lectures on some aspect of diversity for community and elementary student groups.

Sponsor: University of Arkansas at Pine Bluff
PIs: Margaret J. Weber and Paul Hummer (Division of Agricultural Sciences and Natural Resources)

Employers' Recommendations Regarding Portfolio Preparation for Apparel Designers

The purpose of the study was to investigate portfolio preferences of employers who make hiring decisions in the Los Angeles and New York womens wear industries on the basis of portfolios. Descriptive statistics were used to analyze the data. A majority (86 percent) of the 44 firms responding to the mail survey required portfolios and expected job applicants to present portfolios during the interviews. Organizational skills, technical skills, and the ability to apply knowledge were always/frequently discerned through portfolio reviews by a majority of employers (58.2 percent to 75 percent). Physical portfolio components rated as essential/important by 66 percent to 95.5 percent of employers were: name with current address; working sketches of design concepts; freehand sketches of design ideas; evidence of garment construction skills; evidence of patternmaking knowledge through draping, flat pattern, and drafting; evidence of originality in designs, and materials representative of work experience including internships. Portfolio characteristics considered very important/moderately important by 86 percent or more employers were individuality, organization, style, and craftsmanship. Nine personal attributes of job candidates (honesty, work ethic, enthusiasm, promptness, personality, self-assurance, ambition, assertiveness, and appearance) were rated very important/moderately important by at least 88.6 percent or more of employers. Age and extroversion were not rated as important. There were no major differences in preferences of employers regarding portfolio physical components, portfolio characteristics, and personal attributes related to portfolios regardless of demographic characteristics, size of design firm, and length of time in business. There were slight differences in portfolio preferences based on geographic location, industry sub-segment, price category focus, and design focus.

Sponsor: Oklahoma Association of Family and Consumer Sciences Foundation and State of Oklahoma
PI: Shiretta Ownbey

Juried Art Exhibit Hosted in Conjunction With the Interior Design Educators' Council Conference

The purpose of establishing the Design Educators' National Exhibition was to provide a national forum in which faculty teaching all forms of design in higher education could submit projects and artwork to a juried exhibition. Designers from 12 states submitted work to the show. Juror Dana Romeis, former President of the American Craft Council and textile designer for Knoll International, selected 30 pieces from designers from 10 states for the show which had the theme "Building on Our Cultural, Ethnic, and Artistic Past." The work included apparel design, interior design, architecture, landscape design, lighting design, theatrical costume, and set design as well as painting, prints, fiber art, and sculpture in the visual arts category. Provide a retrievable documentation of the work in the juried show, an exhibition catalog was created illustrating each of the 30 pieces in the show.

Sponsor: State Arts Council of Oklahoma
PI: Carol Bormann

The Development of Industry-Based Multimedia Presentations for Promotion of the Intimate-Apparel Industry

The project is a three-part CD-ROM multimedia series that focuses on bra design and production, quality analysis and fit, and material-component interaction unique to bra production. The series consists of 12 10-15 minute segments which include video clips, graphs, animation, still photographs, graphics, character-generated text, and narration. The faculty team conducted videotaped interviews with intimate-apparel designers, manufacturers, merchandisers, engineers, and other professionals in New York and Connecticut. In addition, the team toured design and manufacturing sites in New York, Connecticut, and Virginia. The project will enable colleges and universities to incorporate current technology into classroom instruction. The series of CD-ROM presentations will be available to other colleges and universities through the Center for Apparel Merchandising and Manufacturing (CAMM) at Oklahoma State University. Each presentation can be viewed simultaneously on students' computers in a lab situation, projected for a classroom presentation, or accessed by students independently for use on their personal or laboratory computers. Each multimedia segment is accompanied by student worksheets and an instructor's guide.

Sponsor: State of Oklahoma and The Underfashion Club, Inc.
PIs: Cheryl Farr, Janine Manley, and Shiretta Ownbey

Enhancing Health and Safety Through Personal Protective Equipment

Completed a comparison of data from three related studies, each of which evaluated the merits of multiple artificially-cooled prototype glove systems. Data analyses substantiated the merit of artificial-cooling, a liner, and a glove system, for simultaneously addressing protection and human factor issues for chemical protective gloves. A new prototype concept is under development and evaluation.

Sponsor: Oklahoma Agricultural Experiment Station
PI: Donna Branson

Establishing a Network Training Concept for Distance Learning

Two video conferences were completed on faculty development in the distance education arena. Faculty also participated in a regional conference with an emphasis on active learning across the subject matter areas. Faculty are integrating multi-media learning modules into the curriculum. Plans are continuing for graduate education offerings across the region to access institutional strengths.

Sponsor: Iowa State University
PIs: Patricia Knaub and Margaret J. Weber

Fire and Rescue Service Personnel Work/Station Uniform Sizing and Fit Evaluation Study

Work/station uniforms are garments typically worn under protective clothing of fire and rescue service personnel. Improperly fitting or inconsistently sized uniforms may mar appearance, possibly diminishing authority in a crisis situation. More importantly, performance may be reduced and be potentially life-threatening due to restricted movement or exposing skin to a hazardous environment. Whether one works as a rural volunteer fire or rescue worker or as part of a large metropolitan fire and rescue service, having appropriately fitting uniforms may be important to appearance, comfort, and performance. Phase I of the project involved developing and administering an instrument to investigate sizing and fit satisfaction including areas of performance, protection, impaired mobility, comfort satisfaction, needs and expectations of work/station uniforms, and self-esteem of men and women fire and rescue workers. Phase I has been completed, and an analysis of data is currently in process. Utilizing Phase I data, Phase II of the project will include developing a method for determining the range of motions used by fire and rescue workers wearing work/station uniforms in the performance of their jobs and developing a range of motions protocol that can be used to achieve optimal fit, comfort, and performance.

Sponsor: Oklahoma Agricultural Experiment Station
PI: Janine Manley

Producing, Promoting, and Delivering the Nationwide Home Based Business Videoconference and Supportive Education Packets

This project created a pilot program to provide home-based and micro business owners with marketing information, opportunities, and support. OSU developed, promoted, and produced a three-hour seminar, "Mapping Your Marketing Future." The seminar included a one-hour live satellite broadcast from OSU and two hours' instruction at each downlink site. Modules presented during the conference included marketing mindset, positioning, production, pricing, and promotion. All learning and training materials used at the sites were developed and distributed by OSU. Nearly 1,000 individuals in 22 states participated in the seminar.

Sponsor: Rural Enterprises, Inc.
PI: Debra Engle, Cheryl Farr, Lynda Harriman, Shiretta Ownbey, Lona Robertson, and Nancy Stanforth

HES Research Databases

Data for research, instruction, and extension grants were collected from the membership of the Board of Human Sciences, National Association of Land Grant Universities and Colleges for the Colleges of Human Science. This data were analyzed by functional area, major subject matter, and by university. The data are useful for prioritizing issues by expertise within the Human Sciences.

Sponsor: Consortium of Universities
PI: Margaret J. Weber

Historic Costume Designing for "Living History" Programs

Public education is an important mission of the National Park Service. Therefore, when the Park Service develops "living history" programs, attention is given to the accuracy of reproduction of historic apparel. This project involved the designing and production of two women's ensembles (jacket, blouse, skirt, petticoat, camisole, and corset) representative of apparel worn in the Indian Territory during the decade 1900-1910. These garments will be worn by Park Service employees during programs presented at the Chickasaw National Recreation Area.

Sponsor: Sulphur Chamber of Commerce
PI: Lynne Richards

Linkages between American Retailers and Rural Apparel Manufacturers

Economic development of rural areas has become important to states with substantial rural populations. Many rural areas are becoming increasingly dominated by a few regional growth centers while the manufacturing sector in adjacent smaller communities either stagnates or declines. A strategic link between rural manufacturers and American retailers is needed. The purpose of this study is to investigate American retailers' perceptions of small and mid-sized apparel manufacturers as sources of merchandise. This research will help to facilitate partnerships between small- and mid-sized apparel manufacturers and retailers by establishing benchmarks and identifying the best practices for small- and mid-sized manufacturers when working with American retailers. In-depth interviews will be conducted with retailers to establish these benchmarks and best practices for manufacturers. Results will be used to strengthen the American apparel industry.

Sponsor: State Of Oklahoma
PI: Nancy Stanforth

Merchandising Strategies for Turnstone Furnishing in the Home Office Market

This project addressed the growing need for appropriate office furniture for telecommuters and home based businesses. After experimenting with standard merchandising techniques, Scott Rice approached Oklahoma State University to develop an interior design studio project that would require students to design vignettes for use in a home furnishings retail setting. After the successful completion of this initial task, Scott Rice worked with Steelcase Inc. and Evans, a home furnishings retailer, to establish a center for home office solutions using Turnstone and Anderson Desk Products. Following this, representatives from Scott Rice and Oklahoma State University developed the scope of the proposed research piece of the project. The objectives of the project were to study and document the training program given by Steelcase to Evans' employees; maintain sales data information for the purposes of payment, furniture style information, and customer profile; develop four assessment instruments; analyze sales data, survey/interview data, and training effectiveness data; use data analyses to suggest further refinements in employee training, product ordering/delivery practices, dealer profile, design of vignettes, and to build the model of a successful Steelcase/local retail partnership.

Sponsor: Steelcase Inc. and Scott Rice
PIs: Carol Bormann and Donna Branson

Textile Dyes Available within Oklahoma's Natural Environment

Natural dyeing refers to the extraction of coloring agents from naturally occurring plants, animals, and minerals, and application of those agents to textiles, leather, or basketry. From ancient times, natural dyeing was the only method for coloring such materials, until the discovery of synthetic dyes in the mid-nineteenth century. However, among persons who lived great distances from commercial centers or who had limited financial resources, natural dyeing remained important into the early nineteenth century. Today, fiber artists continue to use natural dyes, appreciating their interesting depth of hue. This project is investigating the availability of botanical dyes in Oklahoma's natural environment and analyzing the color results in relation to a variety of related factors.

Sponsor: State of Oklahoma
PIs: Lynne Richards and Ron Tyrl (College of Arts and Sciences)